We crossed the border of Bolivia, tired, yet wide - eyed, and ready to be back in the country. A country I for many weeks had been dreaming about returning to. It was just as I left it, with the colorful cholitas asking me to buy from them, the little kids starring, the smell of wood in the distance and dogs barking at each other... I was back and it still feels so good.
Our first stop was to Tupiza, the town also known for Butch Cassidy and the Sundance kid. A good friend of mine had recently moved there so we were able to catch up, do some crazy Bolivian style horseback riding (through the Canyon of the Incas, el Puente del Diablo and the Montes de los machos), and began our tour of the Salar. Several other Peace Corps Bolivia volunteers had returned to Bolivia as well, so together we made six on our journey through the vast high desert plains of the Salar (SW corridor of Bolivia). A four day tour, spanning 900 miles in a Toyota Landcruiser with 6 good companions and vistas that just blow your mind- the trip just could not have been better. It felt like we were on a completely different planet with the colors of the tierra, barely any human inhabitants, many vicuñas, llamas, alpacas, altitudes reaching over 5,000 meters (approx. 16,000 ft.) and pink flamingos that perch in Lagunas that are colored reds, greens and blues from the natural minerals of the earth. An incredible time... (for fotos check out my friends blogs tomanna and whereshelen).
Despues, fuimos a Sucre, la ciudad blanca de Bolivia. A beautiful city where even more Peace Corps friends had returned to. We relaxed, ate great food, made incredible tshirts, washed some clothes, and saw the US of A change in front of our eyes. It was an incredible feeling... I was crying with joy walking back to our abode after the speeches of both candidates. It was a great week shared with even more beautiful people. After a solid 4 days of rest we ventured towards the city of Potosi. The most important historical city of Bolivia, for its mines pues. Potosi lies at over 4,000 meters and is about 2 hours west of Sucre. Fortunately for us, we arrived during their feriada weekend, el dia de Potosi, 78 years of libertad. Therefore, though many touristy spots were not open, (including la Casa de Monedas) an array of Potosiños from all over came into the city to celebrate this big weekend and to see Evo Morales (whom we too got to see). We were able to take a tour of one of the working mines in el Cerro Rico, which was quite the intense experience. All geared up, climbing through cavernous tunnels which rank of arsenic, asbestos and other minerals and very little oxygen - it was quite a long 4 hour tour followed by exploding dynamite we bought in the miners market. I was personally happy not to see the actual workers working, thanks to the holiday, because it is such a depressing reality that people still work in these conditions for such unjust pay. (Life expectancy for the men and women that work in the mines pushes just over 40, there are 10,000 workers in the 420 mines in el Cerro Rico). However, at the same time, it was important for me to see this reality and experience this rawness since it still plays such an important role in so many Bolivian families lives.
From Potosi we took an overnight bus to La Paz (7 hours) and immediately hopped into an express taxi to Rurrenabaque (14 hours), en el departamento de Beni. We met up with the same people we went on the Salar tour with and had an incredible 4 day tour of the pampas. Beni is the northern lowlands of Bolivia, casi Amazon basin (altitude = sea level). Visiting the pampas during the dry season gave us the opportunity to see dozens of different species flocking to the river to rest and drink in harmony. We saw Capiberas, alligators, caymans, storks, hawks, kingfishers, pink river dolphins, etc. living side by side, sipping on that same bit of water which will soon be too powerful for tourists to boat down. It was an awesome, hot and muggy ride through the river, a drastic difference from the Altiplano of Bolivia. Despues, we returned to La Paz and embarked north to Lago Titikaka (in Aymara, Titi Khar´ka means Puma rock, which is one of the power animals of the Quechua and Aymara cultures). We spent 1 night on the north side of the Isla del Sol, in the town of Challapampa, visiting the ruins known as the Palacio del Inca, a labrynth of sorts, as well as the Mesa Ceremonial (which historically was used to sacrifice life to the gods), and finally the rock that looks like a crouching puma. We saw the sun enter the earth on the island of the sun in the midst of the palacio and I woke for the sun exiting the earth at the port of Challapampa-Isla del Sol = the birthplace of the sun and moon gods. The north side of the island had such intense energy, I was moved spiritually everywhere I went. The following night Helen and I spent the night in Yumani, the south side. We hopped off the boat and remembered that this is where indeed the Inca Stairs lie.... after our vertical hike up the stairs we decided to be a bit lazy and just sip on some beers while watching the sun set for the second time. This part of Bolivia has such intense energy... the lake itself is immense, Bolivians call it their sea and indeed at times it feels like it. The heavy winds of the Altiplano blow the water creating the sounds that one would hear at the beach, yet truthfully it is fresh water and landlocked.
Currently I am back in Oruro, my regional city during my Peace Corps service. Yesterday I played tour guide and showed Helen around. It feels so good to be back in a place that I know so well. I´ve decided to take today as an admin. day to just relax, walk around, write this blog and feel at home. Tomorrow I plan to return to La Paz, this time for several days to see the sites and do some much needed artesania shopping. By Thanksgiving I hope to be in Peru. My time in Bolivia has been incredible and I am so happy and feel so lucky that I got the chance to return to her to see the beautiful, unique places I for so long was planning on visiting during my service. I recommend visiting this gem in the rough to all who wish to travel to South America. Tal vez you too will fall in love with her.
In Early October. Things are really alive and
